Off the beaten way in Barbados: readers’ tips

Dodging the cruise ship and resorts, our tipsters track down stunning walkings, quiet beaches, lots of local colour and rum

Winning tip: Nigel Benns aunts rum bar, St Andrews

The west coast has plenty of swanky bars but you have to go to a local rum bar to get the authentic Barbados drinking experience. Nigel Benns Auntys Bar in the north-east was bought by the British boxer Nigel Benn for his exuberant elderly aunt Lucille.

Exterior
Photograph: tpalmen6 6

Arrange your own transport rather than going with a rum tour group and youll have more fun with auntie and her other regulars. Set some reggae on the jukebox, sip a glass of Old Brigand rum from the nearby distillery and listen to some great local stories surrounded by pictures of someones favourite nephew.
On
Facebook
Emma Patel

Hike the island

Xtreme

Walk with Xtreme Hikers Barbados to experience the islands varied terrain and escape the tourist traps. The hikes, up to four hours long, suit all fitness levels and are operated mornings and evenings. Youll visit lesser-known beauty spots on the east coast, such as Culpepper Island and Bath beach. At the beginning or aim of a hike, attach a visit to this serenely empty beach. It get busy on bank holiday and weekends but its just what youd imagine a Caribbean beach to be at any other time. Hikes are free but leaders accept donations.
On
Facebook
Natasha Springer

Free strolls off the beaten track

Grenade
Photograph: Flavio Vallenari/ Getty Images

Barbados is stunning strolling country but its not easy to know where you can safely wander. I recommend joining one of the friendly three-hour guided hikes that operate several times a week for free though a donation to the Barbados National Trust is appreciated. There are a range of difficulty levels, from the six-mile Stop n Stare to 12 -mile Grin n Bear( and these are tough, believe me ). The roads are always changing so you can take your pick: a dramatic eastern coast stroll or( my preference) a walk in the tropical interior.
For a schedule of the walks consider
barbados.org
kin1 01

Brilliant beach to yourself

Bottom
Photograph: Alamy

Small, secluded Bottom Bay beach in the south-east is hard to get to: either in a ridiculously overpriced rental vehicle or a two-mile tripfrom the nearest bus stop on a nondescript unmarked lane. All of a sudden, it opens up: a few steps past an old Rasta selling coconuts and bangles at its term of office and you insure waves making the creamy shore with just enough force for the best body surfing experience of your life. The bay is small, perhaps 150 by 50 feet, sheltered on three sides by small but steep cliffs, with a central group of tall palm trees hurling shade that circles the beach like a sundial. You may have the place to yourself. But dont forget to settle that coconut price beforehand or it was possible to $10. For my fund, a huge bargain, given the surroundings.
orkney8 9

Lo-fi boutique close to the surf

MoonRaker

I recommend the beachside MoonRaker Beach Hotel for the budget-conscious traveller. Each room is a mini apartment with a well equipped kitchenette. There are just a few rooms around a lovely pond. There is an on-site bar and eatery, too, which is great for session locals and surfers. It is a little off the beaten track but only a short bus ride into Oistins. We bided with young kids and they loved it. This is a concealed gem.
Doubles from $105 a night room-only,
moonrakerbarbados.com
Nonbelonger

Jacobean abbey and rum distillery

St
Photograph: Michele Falzone/ Getty Images

One of our most memorable jaunts was to St Nicholas Abbey . Not a church, but a mansion built in 1650 for plantation owner Benjamin Berringer. It is one of the few remaining Jacobean homes in the world and has been occupied endlessly. It boasts gorgeous gardens with a shady avenue of ancient mahogany trees. Theres a working rum distillery in the grounds. The displays in the on-site Sugar and Slave museum make for uncomfortable viewing, but it was heartening, too, to read of the Bussa slave insurrection of 1816, the largest slave uprising in Barbadian history, which helped pave the way to emancipation.
s tnicholasabbey.com
rja1 23

Fish Friday at Oistins

Oistins
Photograph: Alan Copson/ Getty Images

Every Friday after sunset, the coastal village of Oistins runs crazy for fish. Local homemakers and fishermen celebrate the weekly catch by frying and grilling their freshly snared swordfish, mahi-mahi and flying fish along the waterfront. All are welcome and for around $15 you are able to have a feast with a brew thrown in. The fun goes on to the open-air beat of reggae and calypso all night long. Young, old, men and women come out in a real show of old-fashioned community living, welcoming all comers. Youll have the beach to yourself on Saturday morning if you wake up before noon.
gonca

East coast hike

Bathsheba
Bathsheba beach. Photo: Alamy

There are several rewarding walkings on the untouristy east coast. Scenic Bathsheba beach is a favourite with surfers, and from there you can follow a section of old railway way( now a hiking road: the Colin Hudson Great Train Hike ) with fabulous the opinions of the Atlantic, to the settlement of Cattlewash. Its worth making a detour into the forest as you cross Joes River, to glimpse another side to Barbadoss natural beauty. Here youll be shaded by ancient mahogany trees and palms, and maybe taunted, as I was, by the sound of green monkeys calling. Reward yourself with grilled marlin at Dinas bar back in Bathsheba.
ID6492793

A day at the races

The
Photograph: Alamy

If youre around on a Saturday, head down to Barbados Turf Club near Bridgetown for some local horse racing( there are about 25 race meetings throughout the year ). Held at the Historic Garrison Savannah, tickets are $10 Barbadian and there are plenty of food stalls selling traditional rice and peas, pudding and souse and fried fish, as well as cold beers. Its a great local ambiance, and a fun day out away from the beaches.
barbadosturfclub.org
ID444703

West coast eating on a budget

The west coast is renowned for its money-munching prices, but we discovered a low-cost place to eat that ditches the glamour and gives you a true taste of Barbados. De Outback Bar& Grill is tucked away in Lower Carlton, merely off the coast road. Its scruffy and basic but the garden you eat in is pretty and the atmosphere is Bajan. Choose the fish of the day and the rum sour and listen to local musicians banging out tunes under the stars. Fun periods for minimal dimes.
On Facebook
Fleur Ogilvy

Read more: www.theguardian.com

Related posts

Leave a Comment